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  • Founder - Causes, Effects and Prevention

    By admin | May 22, 2008

    Article reproduced from Hay There Volume 1 Issue 3 Spring 2005

     

    Founder and laminitis are often used interchangeably but are actually two separate but related illnesses that affect horses.  Laminitis is the inflammation of the horses foot and founder is the name given to the tissue damage and complications that occur from an attack of laminitis. 

    There are many opinions on the causes of laminitis ranging from grazing on lush pasture or overeating of grain to drinking large volumes of water while the horse is overheated or even a retained placenta in a foaling mare.   

    Not every horse is susceptible to laminitis but the more overweight the horse the higher the risk.  If you suspect that your horse has laminitis it is important to take early action.  Take him out of the pasture and turn him in some tight circles to see if there is an indication of stiffness. 

    Feel for heat in the horses foot and check the digital pulse.  Heat and a strong pulse are an indication of inflammation in the foot.  Laminitis usually affects the front feet but can be present in all four.  Soaking the feet in cold water can also help to reduce the inflammation.  Prevention of laminitis and founder can be achieved by following proper horse management. 

    Keep your horse at a reasonable weight and avoid feeding excesses.  Feed hay in the mornings if the horse is stabled before they are let out into the pasture to avoid gorging on lush feed and also wait until the dew is off the grass.  Give your horse access to unlimited supply of fresh, clean water except immediately after exercise.  Always remember that it is easier to prevent laminitis and founder than it is to treat it.

    Source:                        Founder & Laminitis - www.acreageequines.com

                            Laminitis, Danger in the Grass - www.saddleclub.dbw.org

    Note:  This information is to be considered general in nature and is not to be used to treat specific cases.

     

    Topics: Animal Care, Horses | No Comments »

    What’s in a bale of hay?

    By admin | May 22, 2008

    Article reproduce from Hay There Volume 1 Issue 3 Spring 2005

     

    To make the bale of hay that arrives in your shed ready for your horse, cow, llama or other animal to eat involves a long process that relies heavily on the weather - both for the growing of the crop and for the right conditions to achieve a good quality hay bale.  In growing the crop, water needs to be given at the right time as to not cause stress on the plant.  This can cause early flowering in Lucerne and also encourage the plant to be more leggy or stalky.  Once cut, the crop needs to be raked in to wind-rows which are then turned each day until fully dry.  This daily raking  allows the sun and wind to dry the plant quickly, thereby reducing the nutrient loss and bleaching of the plant.  During summer this may take as little as three days while in winter it can take up to three weeks or more.  While on the ground the crop is highly susceptible to rain as it doesn’t take a great deal of rain to leach the nutrients from the plant matter and render the hay worthless.  Once the plant matter has dried to the correct moisture content (<20%), it is then ready for baling.  Baling is usually undertaken in the evening or early morning, once the dew comes down, as a small amount of moisture is necessary to ensure the leaf remains on the plant and doesn’t crack and crumble during the baling process.  The hay bales then need to be picked up from the paddock as quickly as possible to prevent fading and drying out from the sun.  Once picked up the bales are then stacked in the storage shed, and will need to be checked initially for any overly moist bales that could spontaneously combust.

    Who’d be a farmer!

    Topics: Hay | No Comments »

    Hay Storage - Best Practices

    By admin | May 22, 2008

    Article reproduced from Hay There Volume 1 Issue 3 Spring 2005

    Like any dry food, hay should be kept in a cool, dry, dark place. The most important of these conditions by far is dry and this should be achieved at the expense of the other two conditions if necessary.  Whilst rain is an obvious way that hay can get wet, moisture from the air and condensation are more insidious forms and generally cause the biggest problems.  The following are a list of do’s and don’ts with regard to hay storage.

    Don’t let hay sit directly on the ground or even concrete as moisture is absorbed through the ground;

    Do put hay on wooden planks or pallets to allow air circulation underneath;

    Don’t let hay contact metal shed walls as condensation collects on these surfaces;

    Do allow air to circulate around all sides of your hay stack or if it must touch a surface, make it a timber one;

    Don’t cover hay with a plastic tarp as any moisture in the hay is trapped and concentrated encouraging mould formation;

    Do cover hay with a woollen blanket or flannelette sheet as this provides some protection from moisture whilst  still allowing the hay to breathe;

    Don’t keep hay in a small, confined tin shed as this can get very hot and doesn’t allow moisture to escape;

    Do keep hay in as large and as airy a shed as possible;

    Don’t leave hay exposed to the south-east weather as this is the direction most rain comes from in south-eastern Queensland (or west for storms).  If a side is to be left open then the north-facing side is the best;

    Don’t try to store hay for too long (more than a month in a humid/coastal environment); and

    Do turn over your hay regularly, using your oldest bales first.

    Of course very few of us can get everything right, but if we  are pointing is the right direction, we have a better chance of getting there.

    Topics: Hay | No Comments »

    Understanding More About Lucerne

    By admin | May 21, 2008

    Lucerne (Medicago sativa) is thought to have originated somewhere in north-western Iran and north-eastern Turkey. Varieties range from winter-dormant, through to winter-active lucerne.

    Winter dormant lucerne has very fine stems producing the best quality hay, and is more forgiving in that it doesn’t decline as fast if cutting has to be delayed due to wet weather. However it barely grows in winter meaning that no hay can be produced between May and September - just as demand is highest.

    Read the rest of this entry »

    Topics: Lucerne | No Comments »

    Prime vs Shedded Lucerne

    By admin | May 21, 2008

    Prime hay is the classification given to hay that has good green colour, plenty of intact leaf, and relatively fine soft stems. It may contain up to 10% of other plant material, such as grass, but should be free of prohibited weeds and mould, fungi, or weather damage. There is actually a grade above prime, Choice, that is more pure, and of a higher standard all around. These classifications do not specify age, but most people assume prime hay to be prime green, which is as fresh as possible (generally less than a month).

    Read the rest of this entry »

    Topics: Lucerne | No Comments »

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